Buttermere

Buttermere has to be one of the most photogenic and popular places in the Lake District.

My visit was to include a 5½ mile walk from Buttermere village taking in the waterfalls at Sourmilk Gill and a complete circuit of the lake.

There are a number of car parks in Buttermere village, the main two being at the side of the Buttermere Court Hotel (previously the Fish Inn) and the National Trust car park at Long How, just on the outskirts of the village. While the car parks are both reasonable sizes they do fill up quite quickly so it is worth getting there early. Both car parks are pay and display. There is also parking at a number of locations on the access roads around the village including the side of the road towards Newlands pass. These do fill up quickly again and tend to be occupied for long periods so parking can be tricky.

My walk started from the National Trust car park and headed down the hill into the village and turning right once over the small bridge and past the Bridge Hotel. The path starts to the left of the Buttermere Court Hotel (pay and display car park on the right). Go through the gate and join the main path to the lake. As you follow the path you will see Sourmilk Gill tumbling down the hill in front of you. Follow the path until you reach a second gate and continue through the gate to reach the lakeshore. Walking anticlockwise around the lake seems to be the preferred option for the best views so turn right towards the wooden bridge and cross over the stream (Buttermere Dubs). Straight in front of you is Sourmilk Gill, it is worth the short detour up to the bridge to get a view over the whole of the falls as it drops in a series of cascades for nearly 400metres (1300ft).

Return to the path and continue onwards around the lake. The path is fairly well maintained and flat for most of the walk. There isn’t really much in the way of directions, just follow the track around the lake.

The path along the shore heading towards Fleetwith Pike

Sourmilk Gill, a series of cascades that flows over 400m down from Bleaberry Tarn into Buttermere

As you reach the head of the lake you will pass through a small gate and across farmland towards Gatesgarth Farm. Cross the small bridge, Perry’s Bridge, over Warnscale Beck and pause to take in the views towards Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks, then turn to look back over the lake towards Buttermere village.

View from Peggy’s Bridge towards Fleetwith Pike (left) and Haystacks (right)

View from Peggy’s Bridge towards Buttermere

Continue along the path through Gatesgarth Farm to the tarmac road (B5289). There is usually an ice cream van here to catch up on some refreshments before walking back down the lake. There is also another pay car park here so you could park here and start the walk from the head of the lake.

After passing through the farm turn left onto the B5289 and walk along the side of the road for approximately 500m before returning to the lakeside path. The path brings you to a shingle beach offering the classic view of Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks and Char Cottage reflected in the lake. At sunrise with early morning mist on the lake this can look truly magical.

The iconic view of Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks reflected in the still waters of Buttermere

Continuing on the path we come to a more rocky and narrow section back towards Buttermere which is not suitable for pushchairs or those with restricted mobility. The path is right at the water’s edge and can often become flooded if water levels are high, following prolonged rain fall. Continuing either results in wet feet or requires a scramble up some sheer and slippery rocks. After a short while the path passes through a narrow tunnel cut out of the rock. This is dark and often flooded so take care when passing through - it is easy to bump into people coming the other direction without seeing them.

The path often becomes flooded. On this occasion it was passable but on my previous visit it was submerged, approximately 30cm/1ft deep

The path passes through a tunnel cut into the rock

Light at the end of the tunnel

Continue along the path through the wooded area back towards Buttermere. You have the choice of two paths, one on the left is a permissible path that leads you back to the lakeshore where you started while the other (straight on) takes you through Sykes Farm and to the tearoom where you can get a selection of snacks, drinks and cakes following the walk. From here just follow the road down into the village back towards the car park.

Getting There:

From Cockermouth follow the road out of town towards Lorton and then continue on the B5289 until you reach the left hand fork signposted for Buttermere village. Follow the road into the village and the National Trust car park is on the right at Long How just before you reach the village.

You can also approach from Keswick following the signs for Borrowdale and Honister Pass.

Buttermere (Long How) National Trust car park Grid Ref: NY 172 172.
Postcode: CA13 9UZ.
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