Wastwater
Wasdale is remote, tranquil, and a truly beautiful valley in the western Lake District National Park in Cumbria in north-west England.
The name came from old Norse word Vatnsdalr, meaning "valley of the water". Much of the valley floor is occupied by Wast Water, England's deepest lake with a depth of 258ft (almost 80m). At its deepest it is below sea level.
Wastwater is one of two lakes that are both close to my home and my heart. When I moved to Cumbria in the mid 1980’s this was one of the first of the lakes that I visited and with it being so close to my home it is an area that I have visited on many occasions over the past 30+ years. The area is unlike most of the Lake District and it has a ruggedness that has not been diminished by tourism. The feel of the area changes dramatically throughout the year and with different weather conditions. On a sunny day the views are stunning and it is easy to see why Wast Water was voted the best view in the UK in the 2007 ITV programme 'Britain's Favourite View', beating 15 other nominated locations. On darker or stormy days the hills can appear bleak and foreboding, providing dramatic scenery for the landscape photographer.
Although remote, Wasdale can easily be reached by car and the lake is only 10 minutes or so drive from the A595 trunk road that runs along Cumbria’s west coast..
The road from Gosforth provides spectacular views of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head on the approach to the lake. The boulder fields of The Screes can be seen covering the lower slopes of the mountains.
There are two roads to Wasdale, the most travelled being the one from Gosforth, a small village on the A595 near to Seascale. The narrow road is hemmed in by trees and dry stone walls along much of its length until you are almost at the lake before opening up to give views of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head (above), a steep mountain range rising up from the far shore of the lake.
The second route starts at the Old Post Office in Santon Bridge towards Nether Wasdale (a popular camp and caravan site). The road is again quite narrow and rises steeply as you leave Santon Bridge. As you round a corner at its brow the stunning views of the mountains of Wasdale come into view (below). On a sunny day, this has to be one of the most spectacular views in the Lake District.
The road from Santon Bridge offers this stunning view of the mountains of Wasdale Head, dominated in the centre by the pyramid shaped Great Gable.
The two roads join at Greendale on the shore of Wastwater and the narrow road continues north eastwards to skirt the shore of Wastwater along its 3 mile length.
There are many parking areas along the road where there is easy access to the shingle covered shores of the lake, particularly near Greendale. These are popular with walkers and tend to fill quite quickly so you need to be early to get a good spot. Further along the lake the parking spaces become less frequent.
The road is narrow, very close to the water in places, and has many potholes so care needs to be taken when passing oncoming traffic.
Across the lake are the very steep and unstable boulder fields of The Screes below the summits of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head. The head of the valley is dominated by Great Gable and Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England, along with Scafell, Kirk Fell and Yewbarrow.
There is a new National Trust car park at the head of the lake with parking for approximately 100 cars. Toilet facilities are also available at the car park. Access is from the lake shore road and across a narrow metal bridge over Lingmell Beck. The road, however, continues past the car park and ends at the Wasdale Head Inn. There is also parking available here on a grass/gravel area just before you get to the inn. Parking here is free so tends to fill up quite quickly.
Many people also park alongside the road and in passing places. This is frowned upon as it causes obstructions to traffic and can be dangerous. Lorries supplying the inn and emergency services have been blocked access by inconsiderately parked cars so wherever possible you should only park in designated areas.
Photography
The parking lay-bys near Greendale provide easy access to the shore of the lake and there are many opportunities for photography. If the water level is low there are many large boulders near to the shore that provide foreground interest with views along the lake towards Great Gable.. When the water is higher, however, these rocks are submerged so the image may lack any foreground subjects. The image below was taken from one of the small bays along the lake shore. The rocks and small “headland” provide foreground interest but cut off the views along the lake. Repositioning onto the rocky outcrop would have provided a more sweeping view along the lake.
The shore of Wast Water at Greendale, looking towards Wasdale Head and the snow covered peaks of Great Gable, Lingmell and Scafell.
The road from Santon Bridge passes the youth hostel and then crosses a cattle grid before arriving at the lakeside. Immediately after the cattle grid is a small pull-off area that offers views along almost the whole length of the lake.
Heading towards Wasdale Head provides better views of Scafell and Scafell Pike (the highest peak in England). From Greendale these mountains are almost hidden by the bulk of Illgill Head, but head on for a few hundred metres and there are better views of the mountains. After a little while there is a small secluded bay and nearby parking area. This provides access to a shingle beach area offering views across to the Scafells and also further along the lake towards Yewbarrow, Kirk Fell, Great Gable and Lingmell.
Further along the road towards Wasdale Head provides views across to the rocky peaks of Scafell Pike (centre distance) and Scafell (centre right).
Continuing along the road brings you to the small stone bridge over Nether Beck. You can either walk from Greendale or park on an area of uneven grass on the left immediately after the bridge. A gate allows you to access the side of the beck, allowing long exposure images of the water cascading over the rocks.
Long exposure image of Nether Beach cascading over rocks as it flows towards Wastwater
The bridge to the new National Trust car park is narrow and so you need to be wary of traffic and may need to move out of the way for vehicles crossing the bridge, but standing at its middle you are provided with stunning views along Lingmell Beck towards Great Gable.
Lingmell Beck has its source high on the slopes of Lingmell (right) before flowing into Wast Water. This view was taken on the bridge from the lake shore road, over the stream to the new Lake Head Car Park.
Further on from the inn you must proceed on foot. A number of paths take you into the hills but two of my favourites are towards Mosedale and to the right of Great Gable. From the inn, head towards the beer garden and turn right through the gate and over the small packhorse bridge. This path climbs up into Mosedale and passes a stunning little waterfall known as Ritson’s Force.
Packhorse bridge at the rear of the Wasdale Head Inn
Ritson’s Force Upper Cascade
Ritson’s Force Lower Cascade
The path towards Great Gable starts from the grass car park and passes St Olaf’s church, the smallest parish church in England, before climbing into the hills. The added elevation provides some good locations for photographs looking back towards Wastwater.
Looking back towards Wastwater
Alternatively, from Greendale you can head towards the foot of Wastwater where it flows into the River Irt. Park up and walk in the direction of Nether Wasdale. The road again follows the shore of the lake for a while then turns away and crosses a cattle grid. Just before the cattle grid there is a path down to the left towards a small wooden gate. Go through the gate and follow the path along the shore of the lake, past the Youth Hostel and into Low Wood. The track continues alongside the River Irt and across a stone bridge allowing you to continue back upstream of the River Irt to the old boathouse.
Path along the River Irt towards the old boathouse
Stone boathouse at the foot of Wastwater where the lake flows into the River Irt
Getting There:
From the A595 in West Cumbria head for the village of Gosforth near to Seascale. Head through the village past the shops and car park and you will come to a fork in the road. The lefthand fork heads to Wasdale Head and Wastwater. The righthand fork heads to Eskdale.
If taking the left hand route (Route 1), continue along the road through the village, up the hill and through the forest. The road is fairly easy with only a few narrow sections with passing places.
If taking the right hand route (Route 2), follow the road through the village, continue through Santon and on to Santon Bridge. The road passes the Santon Bridge Inn (on the left), goes over a bridge and bends sharply right. Immediately after the right hand bend turn left at the Old Post Office Campsite and follow this road towards Nether Wasdale. This road has spectacular views of the mountains at Wasdale Head. After crossing the little bridge at Cinderdale you reach a junction signposted left to Nether Wasdale.
Instead, turn right towards the lake. Continue on this narrow road, past the Youth Hostel, and you will arrive at the end of the lake. The road continues along the lake shore and joins with Route 1.
Continue along the lake shore road towards Wasdale Head and the Wasdale Head Inn and you will arrive at a National Trust carpark. Alternatively there is usually plenty of places to park on the grass verges near to the inn.
Overbook Car Park Grid Ref NY 168 069
Lake Head Car Park Grid Ref NY 182 075